What I learnt travelling solo in the safest country in the world for women

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Spasmodic lights, screaming "music", a claustrophobic crush: it felt more like a physical battering than a night out in a pub. However, I had to admit that, up to the point my internal organs started to rattle inside my skin – I'd had a decent evening so far.

As a middle-aged woman who hadn't packed party clothes (when travelling alone, it's best to keep things simple), I'd been uncertain if it was the right event for me. Don't worry, the organisers had assured me: the group would be large, the average age 35, pensioners not uncommon.

So, I signed up. And while the last stop wasn't really to my taste, I'd had a pleasant couple of hours chatting to a mixed crowd, including two lovely Germans, a charming Indian businessman, some locals from Zurich, an Ecuadorian-Swiss and a bloke from Swindon. A nice break from another night on my own.

Since 2020, it's been noted that a significantly higher proportion of female travellers are going solo, with an estimated 80 per cent or more being women; some of these solo travellers are single, while many others have partners with different hobbies.

According to iVisa, taking into account factors like crime and gender-based violence rates, ranking on the Global Peace Index and overall friendliness, the safest country for a woman travelling alone in 2024 is Switzerland.

Great, and perhaps no great surprise. However, I pondered, would exploring the country on my own still be enjoyable? Would its renowned landscapes appear as breathtaking without someone to share them with? Would it be straightforward to navigate by myself in German, French, Italian and Romansh? Were there solo-friendly activities that weren't excessively pricey? Could you order fondue for one? I chose to leave my husband at home and take a classic Swiss rail journey to find out.

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– a great way to get your bearings and meet other people. Our guide Reiner took me through the charming old town, into Alsace, over the river to the state of Baden-Württemberg and back to Switzerland again. “Basel is fantastic,” Reiner said, simply. “It’s Switzerland at its most laid-back.” Just what you want when travelling alone.

A traditional pub that specialises in fondue, with no restrictions on dining alone.

My one-person saucepan was overflowing, the secret combination of cheeses was deliciously devilish. Without anyone to help, I had to balance eating and stirring, but I didn't have to worry about the awkwardness of dipping twice.

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Instead of the tourist trains on the Bernina Express, I opted for the local Albula and Bernina lines, which follow the same route but in regular carriages that don't need to be booked in advance. The train didn't have panoramic cars, but the windows were still very large, and since there were only a few other passengers, I didn't have to squeeze in among couples. I also had a choice of seats.

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I may have seemed a bit pretentious, staring out of the window and making notes with a far-off expression. As we climbed over the Bernina Pass, I opened the miniature bottle of wine I'd purchased at a local supermarket. There are no laws against drinking on board, but it still felt a bit mischievous.

One thing I needn't have worried about was communication. Announcements highlighting the journey's key points were available in multiple languages, including English; as we crossed from Graubünden into the Ticino, German took a back seat and Italian came first.

The line ends in Tirano, just across the Italian border. Would solo travel be significantly different here? It was certainly more budget-friendly – people-watching coffees in cafes were just €1, rather than £4. However, the trains were less reliable; my first one was cancelled altogether. It wasn't a major issue, but generally, you don't want to be waiting around at stations for hours on your own – a major advantage of punctual Switzerland.

Finally leaving Tirano, my train chugged through valleys to reach Lake Como, where I stopped off in Lecco. I felt perfectly secure here too, and pleased to have avoided the summer crowds. There was still a pleasant hum of activity about the old town centre, but the ferry boats were largely deserted and it was easy to get a table for dinner. I ate at Üsteria, a non-touristy eatery that was reasonably priced, where I was glad not to have to share the homemade ice cream.

Before long, I found myself back in Switzerland, taking a train across Lake Lugano to reach Locarno on the shores of Lake Maggiore. There was a running festival in town – which would have been a great way to mingle with the locals – but, after a quick look around this sophisticated lakeside town, I had another train to catch.

The Gotthard Railway, opened in 1882, traverses the Alps, and would be my last picturesque Swiss journey, bringing me to Zurich.

Even though the weather was gloomy, the views still didn't let us down: the rain made the waterfalls impressive, and the mist created an atmospheric haze in the forests. I was on a regular local train, not the tourist train, and the carriages quickly filled up as we picked up speed heading north past Lake Lucerne. I smiled at the lady who sat down beside me, and even at the smelly dog in her handbag. However, most passengers kept to themselves.

Perhaps more formal Switzerland isn't the ideal location for initiating conversations with strangers - unless you join a pub crawl, naturally. However, if seclusion is what you're looking for, the country excels in providing a safe, peaceful, and breathtaking experience for a solo woman.

Sarah Baxter travelled with flight-free specialists Byway (020 4525 6215). A sample nine-day trip, via Basel, the Rhaetian Railway, Locarno and the Gotthard Panorama Line, costs from £1,639 per person including accommodation and train travel.

The Zurich Pub Crawl Runs every Saturday at 9pm; tickets start from £22 per person, or £27 per person including a pre-crawl language exchange. Basel Bike Tours cost from £120pp

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