'Pass on Positano': A local shares Italian destination dupes away from the Amalfi Coast crowds
Guests have described Hotel Poseidon in Positano as breathtaking and luxurious, but Liliana Mascolo has only ever thought of it as home.
A third-generation employee of her family's hotel, Liliana's earliest memories are of full-house bookings and a lively oceanfront verandah.
“Positano's been a favourite for ages,” Liliana says. “But what's shifted is the sort of visitors we get. Instead of staying on for weeks or even months to unwind, people are now coming for a few days, trying to cram in all the top sights along the Amalfi Coast.”
Although she's always understood why this section of the Amalfi Coast is so sought after, Liliana has observed Positano change from a preferred, long-term holiday spot for wealthy Italians looking to unwind to a more accessible destination where day-trippers and weekenders arrive with set plans.
When I was studying in London, I had a poster of Positano on me wall but none of me mates were impressed because they didn't know about the Amalfi Coast. I remember the exact day Positano started gettin' popular on social media: all of me mates were gobsmacked that it was me hometown.
Liliana's always happy to roll out the welcome mat for visitors to Hotel Poseidon, which just so happens to be where she used to call home, but she knows from personal experience that over-tourism on the Amalfi Coast can be a real handful for some travellers. Here are Liliana's four tips for having an unforgettable Italian holiday that's off the beaten track, away from the crowds, queues, and tourist traps.
Tropea: A beach that's as photogenic as Positano, minus the crowds.
“The first place that springs to mind as an alternative to Positano's beaches are Tropea's beaches.”
Positano's popularity on social media is down to its one-of-a-kind scenery.
The rocky hillside gives the village the nickname 'the Pyramid of Positano'. This part of the coastline has dramatic views of the village from the water's edge and stunning views of the Tyrrhenian Sea from many hotel balconies – including Hotel Poseidon's.
Tropea, over 400 kilometres south, is a hilltop village nestled above the Tyrrhenian Sea. Yet Liliana says while its breathtaking scenery is envy-inducing enough for Instagram, there are no influencers in sight.
I know that families from other parts of Italy keep coming back to Tropea, but I'm not aware of many international visitors. There's not a lot of people around, and the scenery is just stunning, so it's a really serene atmosphere.
Despite winning the 2021 Borgo dei Borghi competition and being considered one of the best of the Tyrrhenian coast, Liliana still thinks Tropea is a hidden treasure where you can watch the sunset without having to line up behind a crowd.
Mount Abetone is a top-notch alternative to the Italian Alps for those who prefer a more laid-back vibe, or as the Aussies would say, a 'JOMO' (joy of missing out) destination.
“When I shut me eyes and think of Mt. Abetone, I see meself layin' on the couch beside the fire, playin' board games with me mates.”
Standing among the Pistoia Mountains, Mt. Abetone is one of the most popular ski resorts in Italy, but you won't catch Liliana on the slopes.
I haven't gone skiing in years, I just head there for a chill out. Most days it's just me, the fire crackling and a glass of wine. Going to the ski resort is a pretty big deal for me.
Liliana's family has a holiday house near Mt. Abetone. When Hotel Poseidon shuts down for the season, you'll find Liliana escaping the FOMO (fear of missing out) found in Positano for the JOMO (joy of missing out) in the Apennine mountain range.
“Fair dinkum, nothing ever seems to happen up there, but that's just my personal style. It's not that I'm not keen on heading out – I could easily tag along with my sister to the snowfields – but I'm happy to chill out without feeling like I need to get stuck into hiking or skiing or any of the other things most travellers come for.”
If you're into embracing JOMO like Liliana does, you'll definitely have a relaxing time and reconnect with the people you love on Mt. Abetone's 50 km of trails – and it's a chill alternative to winter sports.
Instead of Atrani for a beach holiday, head to Castellabate
was considered one of the few under-the-radar spots on the Amalfi Coast: a quieter hideaway where the smart traveller could find a more genuine experience off the beaten track.
Now, its popularity is soaring as film enthusiasts are swarming to film locations like Atrani's beach - as seen in Netflix's 'Ripley', and the cliff-hanging shrine, Santuario Santa Maria del Bando, which featured in 'Equalizer 3'.
Planning a holiday based on destinations featured in TV shows or movies is no new thing, so Liliana says to soak up the trend without becoming a supporting actor in someone else's holiday TikTok video.
“I've watched 'Benvenuti al Sud' a few times before actually visiting Castellabate. It's even more stunning in real life, and the locals are just as welcoming to tourists.”
The Italian comedy, a remake of the French film 'Welcome to the Sticks', follows a postmaster who gets transferred to the village of Castellabate and finds that the supposed rough and tough south doesn't quite live up to its bad reputation.
“Pull up a stool at a pub in Castellabate and the handful of tourists you'll spot will always look bewildered. Not because they're unsure of their destination, but because there's not much to head towards.”
This small village, about 120 kilometres south of Naples, has not much to see beyond a castle, an observation deck, and a small museum of sacred artworks which is located inside a church.
There's nothing to do in Castellabate, life just goes by slowly and that's why it's so relaxing," Liliana says. "It reminds me of what Positano used to be like: there's no tick list to get through, you just wander around and soak up the moment.
Check out villages like Varenna in Lake Como during the off-season
generates over $AUS 70 billion from 57 million annual visitors. Liliana agrees that some destinations, like the Amalfi Coast, may feel too tempting to skip, but that doesn't mean you have to follow the crowd. You could visit at a different time of year for a quieter and perhaps even more celestial experience.
“I was really keen to experience the scenery of Lake Como, not the touristy spots, so I went in December, when it’s off-season. Varenna would be the one spot I'd choose to stay at if I went back.”
Varenna, just a short ferry ride from the busy Bellagio, has fewer than 1,000 residents, the 12th-century Castello di Vezio and a romantic lakeside path called the Walk of Lovers.
It's also right on track for this year.
“Lake Como is pretty amazing, but you can also get around northern Italy easily by train and visit Milan or Lake Garda.”
The writer was a visitor at Hotel Poseidon in 2021.
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