Ditch the soap! Dermatologists on 20 simple ways to love and protect your skin

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Our skin is constantly changing and there is a great deal you can do to take care of it - but when should you start using anti-ageing products? And should you ever squeeze a spot? From sunscreen to soap-avoiding, dermatologists clear up the mysteries of skincare.

Keep it simple

I explain to my patients that their skin is a reflection of their overall health," says Dr Ophelia E Dadzie, a consultant dermatologist at Hillingdon hospital in Uxbridge and a specialist in skin care for people with darker skin tones. "It's all about going back to the fundamentals and keeping things straightforward," Dr Dadzie explains. "This doesn't involve splurging on pricey skincare products. It's about eating a balanced diet, exercising regularly, getting sufficient rest, managing stress levels, and following a simple skincare routine.

“Provided you cleanse properly after applying makeup, moisturise if necessary and use sunscreen on a sunny day, most people will be fine, says Dr Jean Ayer, a dermatologist based in Cheshire and a senior lecturer at the University of Manchester.”

Children don’t require elaborate products.

“I notice a lot of young people asking me about hyaluronic acid and retinoids these days,” says Ayer. “Before puberty, there’s no need to use anything.” If young people are interested in skincare, she suggests opting for gentle products like a non-comedogenic moisturiser (meaning it won't clog or block pores) and micellar water.

For those who have eczema, a different approach may be necessary. As Dadzie explains: “For children with skin conditions, it is essential that they grasp their own skincare routine and understand the reasons behind it.”

If you're suffering from severe acne, please seek assistance from a medical professional.

Most people get spots during puberty, and sometimes later in life. “About 80% of the population will have acne to some degree,” says Ayer. This is when you need to think carefully about what you're putting on your skin. “Use something that is oil-free, like benzoyl peroxide. This dries out the areas of skin that are producing too much oil.” If over-the-counter products aren't helping, or if you're getting scarring, go to your GP, says Dr Bav Shergill, a consultant dermatologist in Sussex. “GPs are very competent at dealing with the majority of acne,” he says. If the products they prescribe don't work, you will be quickly referred to see a specialist. Give products a good amount of time to see if they are effective before switching to something else, but no more than three months, says Ayer.

Don't start using anti-ageing products too early.

There's a notion, isn't there," says Ayer, "that if you begin adopting healthy habits early on, you might be able to delay the effects of ageing as you get older. I'm not convinced we have enough evidence to prove or disprove this. If I could turn back the clock to my 20s, I'd still stick to a straightforward approach, using minimal products and a top-notch sunscreen.

When you start using anti-ageing products depends on your skin type, says Shergill, "along with how much sun exposure you have, and what you are trying to achieve. If we are talking about preventatives, you could, from the age of 25 or 30, have a bit of base retinol in your products. I didn't start to care too much about it then, but I believe men are different: they age about 10 years later than women. Due to the menopause changes, women in their 40s lose collagen, so they can get signs of ageing at that time."

Know the ingredients worth splashing out on – or not

“Retinoids are the ingredients that have data to back up their use,” says Ayer. “For older skin, I would recommend using a retinoid, sunscreen and a good moisturiser. Inexpensive products can be just as effective as those at a higher price point.” However, she notes, “the data supporting most anti-ageing products is often based on small studies, so it should be viewed with caution. Hyaluronic acid, for instance, is often touted as being beneficial for hydration. However, its molecules are quite large, making it difficult for them to penetrate the skin. When people claim it's excellent for hydration, actually all it does is sit on the skin's surface, preventing water loss rather than rehydrating it.”

“Eye and neck creams overpromise,” says Dr Emma Wedgeworth, a dermatologist with a clinic in Harley Street, central London. "There is a limit to how much you can rejuvenate the skin in these areas, as the underlying changes are usually the main issue.”

Approach new products with a cautious approach

Dadzie suggests doing a patch test to see if a product is suitable for you or might cause irritation. "When you have darker skin, you are at risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so you need to be extremely cautious."

A lot of people think that retinol irritates their skin, and it can cause dryness," says Shergill. "Use a small amount, maybe two to three times a week, and then gradually increase it. When you're in a dry climate, particularly over winter, you may need to return to using retinol twice a week to prevent irritation.

Don’t squeeze spots

Squeezing spots can lead to issues, says Wedgeworth: "Excessive manipulation of spots is linked to scarring. So I would leave it alone, or use a spot sticker with salicylic acid in it. If you're getting regular spots, you need to put something in place to try to prevent them: we are much more effective at stopping spots occurring than we are at treating them."

“Often, when you wash your face,” says Shergill, “if the spot is ready to go, it will simply clear up on its own. However, it's not necessary to try to remove it.” Benzoyl peroxide or niacinamide, an anti-inflammatory agent, are the recommended treatments for a spot, he advises.

Wear sunscreen

“By taking care of your skin at a young age and using a reliable sun protection product, you can lower your risk of developing skin cancer later in life. Moreover, it's one of the rare things that can visibly prevent sun-related signs of ageing,” says Ayer. If you reside in the UK, ensure you have sun cream available from March onwards, should an unexpected sunny day arise. Shergill keeps a bottle by the front door and another at the back, making it effortless to apply before heading out.

“If you want to make the most of everything to prevent changes like ageing and pigmentation, there is certainly a case for using sunscreen every day,” says Wedgeworth. “Ensure the expiry date hasn't passed,” adds Shergill. It normally lasts for a year after being opened, but check the label.

Use the highest Sun Protection Factor possible.

I always recommend an SPF of 50 or above," says Ayer. "This is because the amount of sunscreen we actually use on our skin is significantly less than the amount tested in the lab. If you apply 25% of the lab-tested amount of a factor 50, "then you are still going to get a reasonable amount of benefit from using that. But the lower you drop that SPF, the less benefit you have. In terms of skin types, if you have very fair skin and burn easily, the SPF (sun protection factor against UVB, which causes burning) is particularly important. For those with darker skin, what becomes more relevant is the star rating (protection against UVA), which is responsible for the effects of sunlight-induced ageing. The SPF should still be high, too.

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Apply a cream, not a spray, every two hours

“Ayer says: 'While sprays are very easy to apply, you won't get the level of coverage you need.' 'When applying a cream, don't rub it in - let it absorb into the skin,' she advises. 'For those at high risk, apply a layer, wait 15 minutes and reapply. Even if it claims to last all day, experience shows this is rarely true, so reapply after two hours.' If you get wet, reapply when you dry off."

Protect yourself from the sun's rays

“Protective clothing is the best you can get,” says Ayer. “Hats with wide brims are excellent, and you can buy clothing with built-in UPF protection.” Shergill, who lives near the sea, says his children always wear a rash vest when they're out in the sun: “It's just the norm here.” While normal clothes do offer some protection, Ayer advises holding your clothing up to the sun. “If you can see sunlight through it, you're letting some UV radiation through. If you're sensitive to sunlight, surprisingly, wearing dark colours and tightly woven fabric in the sun can help.” And, Dadzie adds, “tanning beds are completely out of the question.”

But don't forget, sunlight is good for us

Most people with lighter skin require 10-15 minutes of daily sun exposure to get enough vitamin D in the UK, whereas those with darker skin need 25-40 minutes of sunlight. If you tend to burn easily, it's best to go out in the early morning or later evening, when the UV index is lower, to get a bit of sunlight with reduced risk.

Keep an eye out for moles

“Moles are little marks on the skin, which are often determined by your skin type and family background. For most people, they are completely normal,” says Ayer. “It's usual for people to keep getting new moles until their late 30s. If you start getting new moles after that age, unless they are warts, it's a good idea to have them checked by a doctor or a skin specialist.”

"If you're unsure about a mole, it's best to consult a doctor about it. It only takes a trained professional a few seconds to determine whether it's typical or not," says Ayer.

It's not just moles that can cause issues: be on the lookout for rapidly growing, often skin-coloured lumps, or a spot that hasn't healed after several weeks and is on a sun-exposed area, says Shergill. "Any suspected skin cancer should be removed as soon as possible to prevent it spreading internally. Tumours are removed surgically, usually under a local anaesthetic, and the diagnosis confirmed. Sometimes further surgery and non-surgical treatment is required to get the best cure rates."

Maintain awareness of changes on the skin elsewhere

Our poor body skin gets completely overlooked," says Wedgeworth. "One of the main things I'm very mindful of is the type of cleanser I use on my body. We often notice people using quite a lot of harsh products, and during the winter months, you can end up with dry, flaky skin. This needs to be addressed or it can become a real issue. We see this a lot with hands in the winter.

Even if things don't seem right, it's a good idea to get them checked out," says Shergill. "Don't be embarrassed and try to keep it to yourself. It could be an early sign of something serious that's happening inside.

Forfeit the soap and perfumes

What about using a traditional bar of soap? “I tend to avoid soap,” says Ayer. “It can be very drying due to chemicals in the fragrance or sodium lauryl sulphate. There are good soaps with very little in them, but most tend to have some form of fragrance” – because we often associate being clean with having a pleasant smell.

You are what you consume

“'I focus on polyphenols, like black olives and spinach,' says Dadzie. She also prefers wholewheat pasta and oily fish over processed foods and excessive meat.”

Does sugar cause spots? Dadzie says, "I haven't looked into this specifically, but generally speaking, we know that sugar leads to inflammation in our bodies, so we should cut back on it. I'm not perfect; I do enjoy sweet things. My advice is to opt for dark chocolate – it doesn't taste as nice, so you tend not to eat as much."

Get a good night's sleep and manage your stress levels.

There have been some very intriguing studies that show how a lack of sleep and heightened stress can affect the skin," says Ayer. "I frequently notice that people's skin tends to deteriorate during periods of stress. Getting sufficient sleep is beneficial for overall health, and also has an impact on stress levels.

Don’t smoke

“After overexposure to the sun, smoking is one of the most damaging things you can do for your skin,” says Wedgeworth. “It affects blood flow to the skin: wound healing is poorer in smokers, and it can lead to accelerated ageing. The jury’s still out on vaping, but I personally wouldn’t vape.”

Stay hydrated - but don't overdo it

We're often asked about this," says Shergill. "You don't need to be drinking two and a half litres of water a day. You'll get a lot of your fluid intake from other foods. As long as you're urinating regularly, and your urine isn't very concentrated, and you don't have a headache, you don't need to worry about it too much.

Use fresh towels and gently pat, don’t scrub.

Shergill gives the green light to flannels, "as long as it isn't a really worn-out one that's been around for ages. You can get a gentle exfoliation with it. Drying yourself with a towel is fine, except if you've got conditions like eczema: if you rub, it can trigger eczema." The trick with towels is to "pat yourself dry. It doesn't matter if your skin is slightly damp after you get out of the shower; you can still apply a moisturiser to it."

I don't believe flannels or muslins are required," says Wedgeworth. "Your hands and a towel are absolutely sufficient.

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