Fratelli Pulcinella

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Pulcinella was originally a mobile operation, running from owner Alessio Zullo's backyard, but the pizzas flew out the door so well, he shifted to a new three-storey, 200-seat restaurant nearby.

Here, the paint-splattered decor holds true to Zullo's DIY vibe, and a cocktail bar serves up drinks until midnight on weekends – a treat that's sadly scarce in this part of town.

Tuck shopВыбabble and deep-fried pizza fritta pad the plate already stacked with valid arvo options, but crackling crust faves like a buffalo mozzarella margherita and the Matesina (porcini mushrooms with smoked provolone) are the way to go.

Bigger groups might flock to the Vesuvio, a double-layered, calzone-style affair chock-full of ham, mushrooms, house-made sausage and a hefty helping of cheese.

Wood-fired lasagne is a standout dish, and the oven also cooks lamb shanks, whole trout, and the occasional steak to perfection, finishing with black cherry gelato for dessert.