Every Men’s Haircut You Need to Know—and How to Get It Done Exactly Right

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Because we all wear styles in unique ways. Even classic styles like crew cuts, buzz cuts, taper cuts, high and tight cuts, gentleman's cuts, Ivy League cuts, burst fades, textured crops, and Caesar cuts will look different on you than they will on me.

for them.

Here's a breakdown of the haircuts and extras that I believe every guy should know, courtesy of his barber. While most barbers understand these terms, the average guy can usually ask for: "Take a little off the sides with clippers," "Fades on the back," and "Texturize the top." Those familiar terms are okay, but you might get a fantastic haircut every time if you're specific about the correct words to use.

So, what may seem like straightforward cuts and styles on paper - such as a fade or a buzz cut - I think could use a bit more detail. Also, I'm keeping hair length fairly trimmed, so the options here are more about what you'd get from a barber, not a full-service salon - though if you're looking for a haircut like Jason Momoa's, you're probably better off there. I've left off more popular styles like mullets and undercut tops, but these examples can help you achieve those looks with more precision if that's what you're aiming for.

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This type of haircut was popularized by U.S. Marine Corps. It is also referred to as a military cut or executive cut. A side part refers to a haircut where the hair style is parted from the left or right side. Parallels and asymmetry are also alternatives to the center part.

"Scissors are more suited to experienced hands and fingers that move well, if not perfectly."

It's most noticeable where your hair is longer at the top and shorter on the sides.

Getting a medium-length haircut that's a combination of clippers and scissors usually produces a fantastic result, as long as the stylist takes note that clippers can cut a lot of hair back quickly, which might not be what the client is looking for.

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If you're talking about numbered guards, just put that guard's number over an 8 in a fraction. A #1 is 1/8 inch. A #6 is 2/3 inch, since 6/8 is equal to 2/3. A #4 is 1/2 inch, which means 4/8 equals half an inch. And of course an #8 is the same as 1 inch, since it's 8/8.

Taper vs. Fade

A common misunderstanding for many barber shop customers: "A fade creates a gradual blend on the entire sides of the head," Giusti explains." You can still choose to cut it very close to the skin with a fade, but understand that it will all be connected. On the other hand, a taper only trims the edges.

Let's review the fundamental fade styles you need to be familiar with:

Types of Fades

  • A high fade is named for its starting point, which is higher on the sides, usually around the temple or just above. It creates a bold contrast between the length of the top and the sides.
  • Medium Fade: The fade starts around the ear, giving you a balanced look - less flashy, but still sharp.
  • Low Fade: The low fade haircut starts closer to the bottom of the ear or the neckline. If you don't like exposing your skin but want a subtle hint that you just got a haircut, then this could be a good choice.
  • Skin Fade: A variation of the previous styles, where the haircut gradually fades all the way down to the individual's skin line. The barber can choose to achieve this effect using a razor blade on the ends or by using a zero-gap attachment on their clippers.
  • Soft Burst: This style works best for hair with curls and coils that has some length to it, as well as undercuts. The fade is fairly high, but then simply "trims" or "bends" around the ear, following its natural edge, with the curve of the Fade softening above the ear.

Disconnected vs. Connected

This refers to the way the hair on top and sides of a haircut are blended together. "Disconnected" means there's a clear, sharp contrast, often made with a barber's clipper or a razor, while "connected" means the transition is smooth and blended, typically using graduating clipper attachments or scissors.

Side Part vs. Combover

A side part typically refers to the actual area where the hair is separated, whereas a combover refers to the process of styling the hair across the head after the part has been created.

Pompadour vs. Quiff

They both style hair upward, but differ in height, volume, and appearance. The pompadour has more height, volume, and structure - think rockabilly style, like Elvis or Chuck Berry. On the other hand, the quiff is shorter and less extreme, often looking relaxed and tousled.

The best way to choose the right short haircut for a man in your life is to consider their face shape, personal style, and the occasion.

Crew Cut

One of the timeless classics. With a crew cut, the hair is cut very short all around but with a bit more length on top (cut shorter on the sides toward the top).

Ivy League

The clean-cut Ivy style typically features a short back and sides, while the hair on the top is a bit longer than in a crew cut, making it long enough for scissor cuts. It's often styled with a side part.

Gentleman’s Cut

A gentleman's cut has a bit more length compared to the Ivy style. It features a defined sideburn and slightly shorter sides that frame the face, all clean around the ears - clean and neatly trimmed, just as the name suggests.

High and Tight

The short high and tight haircut is, indeed, a short style. It's probably what comes to mind when thinking of a military-style cut where the sides and the back are very short, almost shaved, but the top is a bit longer, still relatively short.

Buzz Cut

Lots of things can be buzz cuts—it mainly just means you're trimming with clippers at a short length. If you're doing it yourself, it's probably just a buzz cut. A barber, however, can add nuances, such as fading and tapering.

Caesar Cut

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Exploring Diverse Styles and Approaches

Shag Cut

They typically fall under the shag cut, with a range of lengths, textures, and finishes.)

Undercut

Oh, back in 2014, it was a simpler time. The undercut haircut is a style that pairs varying heights on the sides with a long, swept-back top. You're free to add volume, shine, or texture on top - the key is creating a clear contrast between the top and sides. Interestingly, the undercut suits a range of hair textures and lengths, but really comes into its own with relatively straight hair.

Hard Part

I'm a big fan of haircuts that express exactly what they do: A hard part essentially involves shaving a precise line to define a part in your hair. It can direct the way your hair falls, or for someone with short hair, a hard part can add a crisp touch to a fade haircut.

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